On Traveling

Frequent flier, expert packer.  

Frequent flier, expert packer.  

Growing up my family traveled often. With relatives in nearly every corner of the United States, vacation meant Christmas in Boston or Easter in Florida, beach trips to Northern Michigan or visits to the Chicago suburbs. Travel was a means of being together - with our immediate family and with cousins, grandparents, aunts and uncles.  Our crazy schedules of little league games and swim practices, business trips and PTA meetings were put on pause. For these trips, these moments, we occupied the same space. As the plane took off, we would clasp hands. A prayer for a safe flight, a moment to acknowledge how thankful we were. The plane would steady, reach cruising altitude and we would let go. We'd return to our books or puzzles, then later iPods and e-readers, but still we were together.

 

Now our reasons for travel aren't quite so simple. And we find ourselves across states, countries, even continents. Just this morning when I woke up in Sweden, my brother was in Mexico, my dad in New Zealand and my mom in the Netherlands en route to Tanzania.  Needless to say, it's harder to have that time together. It's nearly impossible to find ourselves in the same city, let alone on the same flight. And yet, I can always count on an email or a text: "Safe travels! Text when you land." It may not be a squeeze of a hand mid-take off, but it's something. A prayer for a safe flight, a moment to acknowledge how thankful we are. And that is everything.

Some Words on the Ataturk Airport Attack

On Friday I will travel from Sweden to Tanzania to volunteer with a local organization that empowers children through education. On my journey there, I will fly through Istanbul, Turkey. Yesterday at Istanbul's Ataturk Airport three suicide bombers took the lives of 36 individuals and injured an estimated 140 more. This is the most recent terrorist attack that has caused undue pain, suffering and fear in our world - the latest tragedy among far too many. 

 

I won’t pretend to be well-versed in the complexities of international relations and the conditions that facilitate terrorist groups. I will not be so naive to think that widespread disillusionment, fear and subsequent hatred can be unseated easily. I will readily admit that I am no expert on these things.  But here is what I do know.

 

I know that curiosity towards different people and different cultures is a step towards tolerance. It is tough to hate a person when he has told you about who or what he loves. It is difficult to judge a person when you have seen how he lives. 

 

I know that education and opportunity for young people is a crucial piece in this very complex puzzle. Students who have hope for the future become people who work towards a better one.

 

I know that people are inherently kind. I see this in my 10 year-old students. I’ve seen this in my travels abroad. I experienced this in Boston following the Marathon bombings. And I know this from countless stories of everyday heroes.

 

When I walk through Ataturk Airport Friday afternoon, I will say a prayer for those who have lost their lives, a prayer for their loved ones. I will pray for a world that is more curious and kind, a world that pursues knowledge and understanding. And then I will do something - however small - to work towards just that.

Roots

This picture is total crap, but you can hopefully see what I mean.

This picture is total crap, but you can hopefully see what I mean.

The building in which I teach was once owned by the university across the street, Sveriges lantbruksuniversitet or SLU, an agricultural college. While the land was under their ownership, birch trees were taken from up and down Sweden and planted along the road. In the fall, these trees lose their leaves according to wherever they come from in Sweden, from the Arctic Circle to Malmö. Now that it is firmly autumn here in Uppsala, some of these trees have lost their leaves entirely, some have leaves changing colors, and some have yet to show any signs of losing their summer abundance. Though these adult trees have grown just a few meters from one another, they retain the seasonal cycles of their origins. I walk past this grove daily and I can't help but see it for the metaphor it is. I feel like one of those trees sometimes. I am very much rooted here and rooted elsewhere, very much a product of the places I have known before. It has me wondering - how much of home do we hold on to? How much of our past experiences define our present? And is that a decision we can make for ourselves? I'm not sure I have any answers, just more questions. But I do know that this is the challenge I face, establishing roots in a place where I am so obviously a transplant, an expat, an unfamiliar birch tree. It is a challenge I have chosen many times before - in Boston, in Louisville and here - and it is a one I will likely choose again. And what a worthwhile challenge it is. 

P.S. Two months in today and just received word that I'll be here through June. These roots will grow a little deeper... Exciting stuff!

Better than a Cup of Coffee

I survived the first week with students and contrary to previous beliefs, 4th graders are not terrifying. I thought my personality was better suited for teaching older students, but I must say that so far teaching the younger ones has been awesome. I have a smile plastered on my face constantly and I feel positively - dare I say it - peppy. And I think I know where I've found the energy to be like this.

I do not shy away from my addiction to coffee. I've started my mornings with the good stuff since watching Lorelai and Rory practically guzzle coffee at Luke's Diner in every episode of Gilmore Girls. I've been a faithful lover of coffee for more than 10 years. I've fed my addiction and spent God knows how much at Angelina's and Heine Brothers and Starbucks and Hillside Café and countless others. But now I can honestly say that I've found something that works even better.

Botaniska trädgården yesterday morning

Botaniska trädgården yesterday morning

When I arrived in Uppsala almost a month ago, I bought a monthly bus pass and a bike. I thought I would use the bus for commuting to work and the bike for trips around town. But after just a week, I was annoyed by the bus. I didn't like being at the whim of its timetable and the 750 SEK (about $90) wasn't a selling point either. The 7k ride to work intimidated me, but the bus annoyed me more. Late last week, I hopped on my bike at 7am and I haven't looked back. I thought I'd get to work sweaty and disheveled, but the mornings have been cool and I bring toiletries and a change of clothes. Since last Thursday, I've biked more than 60 miles and I bet that's further than I've gone in my 24 years combined. (Sorry Mom and Dad for all the bikes you bought me that I didn't fully appreciate and that I didn't notice were gone when you gave them away...)

Anyways, here's what I love about biking to work in no particular order: I pass by Carolina Rediviva, the largest library in Sweden, the Uppsala Castle, built in 16th century, and the stunning Botanical Garden. I get an hour's worth of exercise (and endorphins!) every day. I have to be alert early to navigate cars, pedestrians and other bikes, contributing to the "better than a cup of coffee" wide-awakeness that I feel. I'm getting a nice pair of thunder thighs and a butt to match. I make up for all those times I drove two blocks in Louisville. And I have the energy to keep up with 10 year olds. 

Come the dark and dreary mornings of December I'll be riding that bus without complaint, but for now I'm happy on two wheels. 

 

Weekend Warriors

Full disclosure - As I write this, I'm stretched out on the couch with a cup of coffee and my only plans for the day include making another pot... But just go with it.

I like the weekend… a lot. It’s safe to say Saturday is the best day of the week followed closely by Sunday and then Friday. (That’s the truth and anyone who claims otherwise is wrong.) And I like lazy weekends: mornings when I don’t set an alarm, afternoons filled with a book or a hike, unhurried dinners and a second glass of wine. I like that. But in addition to liking restful weekends, I also like to—wait for it—do stuff. Crazy, right? And it just so happens that those two glorious days can also be spent doing stuff, and I like that too. 

Aun, Adil and Egil or maybe Thor, Odin and Freyr??

Aun, Adil and Egil or maybe Thor, Odin and Freyr??

Last weekend, I did stuff. I biked out to the museum in Gamla Uppsala, or “Old Uppsala,” where viking kings were buried in these massive mounds. The museum is filled with all things archaeology and mythology and the mounds themselves, named Aun, Adil and Egil, were once thought to hold the Norse gods Thor, Odin and Freyr. Even though I’d visited the site before, I was still taken by the fascinating history (and mystery) of the spot and the incredible views of Uppsala’s cathedral in the distance. And as much as I like my leisurely Saturdays, days spent exploring a city’s culture are pretty awesome too.

Kungsholmen by kayak

Kungsholmen by kayak

Later that weekend, I tagged along with friends kayaking around Kungsholmen. Stockholm is a city of islands and Kungsholmen, Swedish for “King’s Islet”, is one of the city’s central neighborhoods. It was a perfect day to be outside and it seemed like everyone had the same idea, especially since the sun has made few appearances this summer. The island has these stretches of rock where loads of people were laid out. It was so cool to see people swimming and boating while still very much in the middle of a city. After paddling more than 10k (I’m slowly learning the metric system…), we had a well-earned beer at a waterfront restaurant. Few things compare to a cold beer after a long day. On the train back to Uppsala that night I was exhausted, but so very satisfied. Funny how that works. So to recap: weekend spent relaxing = good, weekend spent doing stuff  = heaps better. More to come soon!

 

- EM

 

 

Vertical Challenges and Visual Surprises

Pants 2.0

Pants 2.0

My friends over at Live Music Louisville turned me on to the absolutely amazing world of... well... live music. I'd been to a few concerts (read: B. Spears when I was 18), but Brittany and Aubrey showed me another experience spanning local bands in grungy bars to big name arena headliners. The music was always top notch, but the atmosphere and the crowd always added that extra magic. One of the things I knew I would miss about living in Louisville was the music scene and the people who made it so wonderful. But I made a promise to myself to continue to seek out those experiences while at home in SF (hey, Lissie, you were stellar at The Chapel!) and here in Sweden. Last night, I made good on that promise. I met a friend in Stockholm for the Lenny Kravitz show at Gröna Lund and I was reminded of a few things: Swedes are tall! Nordic people are tall! Vikings are tall! And seeing as I am none of those things, I am not tall. Though I saw very little of the show, Lenny sounded awesome live and was LOUD. The place was packed, the evening was warm and the band was excellent. And who could forget the moment of hilarity when good ol' Lenny split his pants and gave the first few rows much more of a show than they bargained for. Good laughs, good music and good people - I'm so thankful to have had these in Louisville and so excited to find them here in Sweden.